Last updated: October 2026
Most water heater repairs cost between $228 and $1,017, with a national average of about $616, according to Angi and HomeAdvisor project data. Simple fixes like relighting a pilot or replacing a thermocouple often cost $90 to $200, while a gas control valve or tankless circuit board can run $350 to $900. If the tank itself is leaking, it can’t be repaired, and replacement typically costs $880 to $1,800 or more.
Water heater repair cost at a glance
| Repair | Typical cost (parts + labor) | Unit type |
|---|---|---|
| Service call / diagnosis | $50 – $150 | All |
| Pilot light relight / pilot assembly | $50 – $175 | Gas tank |
| Thermocouple replacement | $150 – $325 | Gas tank |
| Heating element replacement | $200 – $300 (up to ~$750) | Electric tank |
| Thermostat replacement | $150 – $250 | Electric tank |
| Gas control valve | $150 – $500 (avg. ~$350) | Gas tank |
| Anode rod | $50 – $300 | Tank |
| T&P (pressure relief) valve | $75 – $275 | Tank |
| Dip tube | $100 – $250 | Tank |
| Drain valve | $100 – $250 | Tank |
| Expansion tank | $100 – $400 | All |
| Flush / sediment removal | $100 – $200 | Tank |
| Tankless descaling | $150 – $300 | Tankless |
| Tankless flow sensor or igniter | $350 – $600 | Tankless |
| Tankless control board | $400 – $900 | Tankless |
| Leaking tank (replacement) | $850 – $1,800+ | Tank |
Ranges combine national cost data from Angi, HomeAdvisor, Fixr and HomeServe. Prices are higher in large coastal metros: Angi’s 2026 city data shows typical repairs of $250 to $1,200 in New York City and $300 to $1,200 in San Francisco, versus $200 to $850 in cities like Memphis and Indianapolis.
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Get free quotesWhat drives water heater repair costs
- Labor rate. Plumbers typically charge $45 to $200 an hour depending on region and experience; most water heater repairs take 1 to 3 hours.
- Service call or trip fee. Many companies charge $50 to $150 just to show up and diagnose. Some waive it if you go ahead with the repair.
- Fuel type. Gas repairs (valves, burners, venting) generally cost more than electric repairs. HomeAdvisor puts typical gas repairs at $150 to $500.
- Tank vs tankless. Tankless parts and diagnostics cost more, and some brands require factory-trained technicians.
- Timing. Evening, weekend and holiday calls can cost 1.5 to 3 times the standard rate.
- Access. Heaters in tight closets, attics or crawl spaces take longer to work on.
- Permits. Gas valve and venting work may require a permit in some jurisdictions, typically $50 to $150.
Electric water heater repair costs
Heating element: $200 – $300
Electric tanks have one or two elements (upper and lower). A burned-out element is the most common reason for lukewarm water or running out fast. The part itself costs about $15 to $60, but replacement requires draining the tank and testing with a multimeter. Angi and HomeAdvisor put professional replacement at $200 to $300; Fixr’s range runs up to $750 for more involved jobs. Sediment buildup is the usual culprit, so ask the plumber to flush the tank at the same visit.
Thermostat: $150 – $250
A faulty upper or lower thermostat can cause no hot water, scalding hot water, or a tripping high-limit reset button. The part is often around $20, but diagnosis takes time. Expect $150 to $250 with a pro; HomeServe reports a national average of about $242.
Tripped breaker or reset button: $0 – $150
Check your electrical panel and the red reset button behind the upper access panel before calling anyone. If the reset trips repeatedly, there’s an underlying fault (often a shorted element or failed thermostat) and you’ll need a repair.
Gas water heater repair costs
Pilot light and igniter: $50 – $350
If the pilot keeps going out, the problem is often a dirty pilot orifice, a draft, or a failing thermocouple. A service call to diagnose and relight typically costs $50 to $150. Fixr puts full pilot assembly replacement at about $75 to $175. Power-vent and electronic-ignition tanks use a hot surface igniter instead; the part alone can cost over $100 (for example, an A.O. Smith hot surface igniter lists around $120 at SupplyHouse), so installed costs of $150 to $350 are typical.
Thermocouple: $150 – $325
The thermocouple tells the gas valve the pilot is lit. When it fails, the pilot won’t stay lit. The part is cheap, but Angi and HomeAdvisor put professional replacement at about $150, and Fixr reports $150 to $325. Some newer tanks use a sealed combustion chamber with a thermopile or flame sensor assembly that costs more.
Gas control valve: $150 – $500
The gas control valve (with the temperature dial on the front of the tank) regulates gas to the burner. Signs of failure include no ignition, flashing status lights, or water that won’t reach temperature. The part costs about $70 to $200; installed cost averages around $350, with HomeServe reporting a $495 national average. On an older tank, Angi and HomeAdvisor note that replacing the whole heater is often more cost-effective than replacing this part.
Burner, flue and venting: $100 – $350+
Rust flakes, soot or a yellow flame point to burner or venting problems. Angi puts flue vent pipe repairs at $100 to $350, and a gas burner part at about $175. Any sign of backdrafting, scorch marks around the top of the heater, or a carbon monoxide alarm is an emergency: shut off the gas and call a pro.
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Get free quotesTank component repair costs (gas and electric)
Anode rod: $50 – $300
The anode rod is a sacrificial metal rod that corrodes so your tank doesn’t. Most need replacing every 3 to 5 years, sooner with softened water. A rotten-egg smell from hot water is a common sign the rod needs attention (often swapped for an aluminum-zinc or powered anode). The rod costs $20 to $75; installed prices range from about $50 to $150 (HomeAdvisor) to $125 to $300 (Fixr), depending on how seized the old rod is and whether you have overhead clearance.
Temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve: $75 – $275
The T&P valve is a safety device that opens if tank temperature or pressure gets too high. A valve that drips or discharges constantly needs replacing, and so does the cause (high house pressure, thermal expansion, or an overheating thermostat). The valve costs about $20; installed cost is up to around $200 per Angi, with HomeServe reporting a $271 average. Never cap or plug a leaking T&P valve.
Dip tube: $100 – $250
The dip tube carries cold water to the bottom of the tank. If it cracks or disintegrates, cold water mixes with hot at the top, so you get lukewarm water quickly, and plastic bits may clog faucet aerators. The part is about $25; professional replacement averages about $150 per Angi, with Fixr reporting $100 to $250.
Drain valve: $100 – $250
Plastic drain valves often crack or won’t seal after flushing. Fixr puts replacement at $100 to $200; HomeServe reports a $248 average. Many plumbers swap a plastic valve for a full-port brass one, which makes future flushing easier.
Expansion tank: $100 – $400
Homes with a check valve, backflow preventer or pressure-reducing valve have a “closed” plumbing system. When water heats, it expands and has nowhere to go, which raises pressure and can make the T&P valve drip. A thermal expansion tank absorbs that pressure. Angi puts installation at $100 to $400, and many local codes require one in closed systems.
Sediment flush: $100 – $200
Popping or rumbling noises usually mean sediment on the tank bottom. A professional flush costs about $110 to $200 according to Angi. You can do it yourself with our guide on how to flush a water heater.
Leaking tank: replacement required
Leaks from fittings, valves or pipe connections can usually be repaired. A leak from the tank body itself (water seeping from the bottom or under the jacket) means the steel tank has corroded through and must be replaced. Angi puts that at $850 to $1,800. Read our water heater leaking guide to find the source and limit damage, then see our water heater replacement cost guide.
Tankless water heater repair costs
HomeAdvisor puts the average tankless repair at about $600, with most jobs between $75 and $1,300 and complex repairs up to about $1,950. Tankless units have more electronics than tanks, so diagnosis matters.
| Tankless repair | Typical cost | Common symptoms |
|---|---|---|
| Descaling / flush | $150 – $300 | Scale error code, fluctuating temperature, reduced flow |
| Inlet filter cleaning | DIY – $100 | Low flow, unit not firing |
| Flow sensor | $350 – $600 | Unit won’t fire when tap opens |
| Igniter / flame rod | $350 – $600 | Ignition failure or flame loss codes |
| Control (circuit) board | $400 – $900 | Blank display, random shutdowns, after power surge |
| Vent or air intake repair | $50 – $125+ | Combustion air or exhaust blockage codes |
| Heat exchanger | Often under warranty; out of warranty can approach replacement cost | Leaking inside cabinet, overheating codes |
Descaling and vent costs are from HomeAdvisor; flow sensor, igniter and board ranges are from plumbing contractor pricing and vary by brand. Heat exchangers typically carry the longest warranty on a tankless unit, so check coverage before paying for one.
Common tankless error codes
Error codes vary by brand, so always check your owner’s manual. Some widely seen examples:
- Rinnai 11: no ignition (gas supply, igniter or venting). Rinnai 12: flame failure. Rinnai 10: air supply or exhaust blockage. Rinnai LC: scale buildup, so the unit needs descaling.
- Navien E003: ignition failure. Navien E012: flame loss.
Before calling a plumber for an ignition code, check that the gas supply valve is open, other gas appliances work, and the vent termination outside isn’t blocked by snow, leaves or a nest. Scale codes are the most preventable: annual descaling usually costs less than one repair visit.
Tankless pricing and conversion costs are covered in our tankless water heater cost guide.
Service call fees, emergency and after-hours rates
| Timing | Typical hourly rate | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Standard business hours | $45 – $200/hr | Plus a $50 – $150 service call at many companies |
| Weekday evening | $60 – $300/hr | Often “time and a half” |
| Weekend | $80 – $400/hr | Up to about double |
| Holiday | $120 – $600/hr | Up to about triple |
| Emergency trip fee | $150 – $300 flat | Charged by many 24/7 plumbers on top of labor |
Hourly ranges are from Angi’s emergency plumber data, which says emergency rates typically run 1.5 to 3 times normal rates. Fixr estimates emergency water heater repairs add about $100 to $200 to the job.
Can it wait until morning? If the tank is leaking, shut off the cold water supply valve on top of the heater and turn off power (breaker) or set the gas valve to “pilot” or “off,” then drain the tank if needed. Without active leaking or a gas smell, no hot water overnight usually isn’t an emergency, and waiting for standard hours can save $150 to $300 or more. A gas smell is always an emergency: leave the home and call your gas utility.
Repair or replace? The rules of thumb
A $200 repair on a 3-year-old heater is an easy yes. A $450 gas valve on a 12-year-old tank usually isn’t. Use these checks together:
1. Age vs typical lifespan
DOE estimates storage tank heaters last about 10 to 15 years and tankless units more than 20 years. Many gas tanks fail closer to 8 to 12 years, especially with hard water. You can often estimate age from the serial number: on many brands the first four digits encode the month and year of manufacture, but formats vary by manufacturer. See our water heater lifespan guide.
2. The 50% rule
If a repair costs more than half the price of a new installed heater, replacement usually makes more sense, especially past the halfway point of the heater’s lifespan.
3. The age × repair cost rule
Borrowed from HVAC, this rule of thumb multiplies the heater’s age in years by the repair quote. If the result is more than the cost of a new installed water heater, replace; if it’s less, repair.
| Example | Age | Repair cost | Age × repair | Installed replacement | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Electric element | 4 years | $250 | $1,000 | ~$1,400 | Repair |
| Thermocouple | 7 years | $175 | $1,225 | ~$1,400 | Repair |
| Gas control valve | 10 years | $400 | $4,000 | ~$1,600 | Replace |
| Tankless control board | 8 years | $650 | $5,200 | ~$3,000 | Replace, unless under warranty or the unit is otherwise in great shape |
| Anode rod | 5 years | $200 | $1,000 | ~$1,400 | Repair (extends tank life) |
Examples are illustrative. Because tankless units last 20+ years, a mid-life repair on a well-maintained tankless can still be worth it even when this rule says replace. Treat it as a starting point, not a hard cutoff.
4. Signs replacement is the better call
- Water leaking from the tank body or rust-colored water from the hot side only
- Second significant repair within a year or two
- Heater is undersized for your household (see what size water heater do I need)
- Rising energy bills from an old, inefficient unit
- You want to switch to a more efficient type; compare options in tankless vs tank water heater or heat pump water heater cost
For replacement budgets, see 50-gallon water heater replacement cost, gas vs electric replacement cost and installation labor cost.
Water heater warranties: what’s actually covered
| Warranty type | Typical coverage | What to know |
|---|---|---|
| Tank (manufacturer) | 6, 8, 10 or 12 years; some premium lines offer lifetime tank coverage | Covers a leaking tank; you usually still pay labor and installation for the replacement |
| Parts (manufacturer) | Often matches the tank term, sometimes shorter | Covers parts like gas valves, elements and thermostats, not the labor to fit them |
| Labor | Often 1 year or none from the manufacturer | Installer workmanship warranties and paid extended plans can add labor coverage |
| Tankless heat exchanger | Usually the longest term on the unit; often 10 – 15 years for residential use | Often reduced if not professionally installed or if scale damage is found |
| Home warranty plan | Varies by plan | Often includes labor but has service fees, caps and exclusions |
Most manufacturer warranties require registration, often within 30 to 60 days of installation, and many exclude damage from improper installation, unapproved parts, or units installed by someone other than a licensed professional. Rheem’s standard warranties, for example, cover tank and parts for 6 to 12 years depending on series but not labor. Before paying for any repair, find the model and serial number on the rating label and check coverage with the manufacturer; a “covered” part can still mean $100 to $300 in labor and trip fees.
How to keep repair costs down
- Flush tanks yearly to slow sediment buildup that burns out elements and causes noise.
- Descale tankless units annually, or every six months in very hard water.
- Check the anode rod every 3 to 5 years; replacing it is far cheaper than a new tank.
- Test the T&P valve once a year by lifting the lever briefly (water will be hot).
- Keep the thermostat around 120°F to reduce scale, stress on the tank and scald risk.
- Install an expansion tank if you have a closed system and a dripping relief valve.
- Get two quotes for anything over $400, and ask for parts and labor to be listed separately.
FAQs
How much does it cost to fix a water heater?
Most water heater repairs cost $228 to $1,017, with a national average around $616 according to Angi and HomeAdvisor. Minor fixes like a pilot relight or thermocouple can cost $90 to $200, while major repairs such as a gas valve or tankless control board run $350 to $900.
Is it worth repairing a 10-year-old water heater?
Small, inexpensive repairs like a thermocouple, element or T&P valve can be worth doing on a 10-year-old tank. For bigger repairs such as a gas control valve, or any leak from the tank itself, replacement usually makes more sense because storage tanks typically last about 10 to 15 years.
How much does a plumber charge to replace a heating element?
Expect about $200 to $300 for professional heating element replacement on an electric water heater, including draining and refilling the tank. The element itself costs roughly $15 to $60.
How much does it cost to replace a thermocouple on a water heater?
Professional thermocouple replacement typically costs about $150, with a range up to about $325 depending on access and whether the heater has a sealed combustion chamber.
How much does it cost to replace a gas valve on a water heater?
Gas control valve replacement averages about $350, with typical ranges of $150 to $500. On an older tank, the cost often justifies replacing the whole heater instead.
Why is my water heater not getting hot?
For electric heaters, the usual causes are a tripped breaker, a tripped high-limit reset, a burned-out element, or a failed thermostat. For gas heaters, check that the pilot is lit and the gas valve is on; a pilot that won’t stay lit often means a failed thermocouple. A broken dip tube can also cause lukewarm water on either type.
How much does it cost to repair a tankless water heater?
HomeAdvisor puts the average tankless repair at about $600, with most between $75 and $1,300. Descaling costs $150 to $300, while flow sensor, igniter or control board replacements commonly run $350 to $900.
Does a water heater warranty cover labor?
Usually not for long. Manufacturer warranties often cover the tank and parts for 6 to 12 years but labor for only 1 year or not at all. Installer workmanship warranties or extended plans may add labor coverage.
Can a leaking water heater be repaired?
It depends on where the leak is. Leaks from the T&P valve, drain valve or pipe connections can usually be repaired for $100 to $300. A leak from the tank body means the tank has corroded through and must be replaced.
Is a water heater repair an emergency?
A gas smell, an active leak you can’t stop, or signs of carbon monoxide are emergencies. No hot water on its own usually isn’t, and waiting for normal business hours can avoid emergency rates that run 1.5 to 3 times standard pricing.
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